NYFW: Snow Xue Gao

How does one make florals for spring groundbreaking? Just ask designer Snow Xue Gao, who defied the phrase made famous by “The Devil Wears Prada” for her spring/summer 2022 collection. Gao’s collection paid tribute to the designer’s heritage and family. During her childhood she spend a considerable amount of time in her grandmother’s garden, who was a Beijing opera singer. Gao also spent much of her time painting traditional Chinese art known as Gongbi. The collection was particularly inspired by the peony flower, a flower that was very popular during the Tang and Song Dynasties in China.

The peony was considered the king of flowers symbolizing happiness and prosperity. To that end, Gao sought to showcase that expression using bias cuts and A-line silhouettes. While peonies were originally used to cater to royalty, this collection took the flower and gave it a more relaxed approach to modern luxury.

The collection utilized both houndstooth and plaid in the suiting pattern as well as a combination of painted floral designs. Color-blocking and charmeuse patterns were prominent in this collection, as well as asymmetrical and deconstructed designs to complete the collection’s relaxed yet tailored aesthetic. The visual set-up of the presentation included media art which helped facilitate the design process to create a more dynamic and memorable experience, as well as a free-style piano performance that sought to paint a picture of Snow Xue Gao’s childhood.